With all the body bolts removed I began to slowly lift the body up and away
from the frame. I did this by using 8x8 wood blocks held by jack stands under
the floor pan and a floor jack. I would raise the body up one jack stand click at
a time moving from front to back. When I had enough clearance I jacked the
passenger side up from the middle of the car until the two jack stands on that
side were no longer under weight. I moved the two stands and slid the frame
rail on that side to the center of the body (the frame is on home made casters).
I repeated the procedure on the other side and pulled the frame completely out.
I did this alone to demonstrate it could be done. USE HELP, it's worth the
pizza and drinks for peace of mind. Extra hands make light work.
With the front clip and engine and trans removed, I can start checking the body
for mechanical and electrical connections. Besides the body bolts themselves,
I had to disconnect the steering shaft, parking brake cable, transmission cross
member, and fuel lines to the gas tank. With these connections removed the
body is ready to be lifted off the frame.
*Remove the gas tank! It got in the way and was a huge pain when pulling the
Now that the frame is separated from the body, I moved it outside to strip off
all the suspension, brakes, and lines to get it ready to be sand blasted.
I started with the front suspension and steering linkage as well as removing
the front brake assemblies on both sides. Then the upper and lower control
arms came off. In the video still you can see the lower control arm front bolt.
It did not want to come out and was frozen in place. It said "No!" and I said
"Yes!" with an impact hammer in hand. I won.
Last thing to do before the frame is bare and ready for sand blasting. All that
is left is to remove the Brake and Fuel hard lines. These were held in place by
a load of line clamps held on by 13mm bolts. With that done, it's time to get
I go over some of the prep work I do before starting any project, namely a ton
of research and gathering of manuals and catalogs. I also put together a thick
binder of online material and car magazine articles. It covered any info related
to the Olds 455 Engine and any G-Body Tech I found useful.
After getting my 87 Olds 442, I give a quick rundown of the changes I want to
make. First on the list, get rid of the anemic 307 that makes an embarrassing
170 hp and has a sad 0-60 time of 9.1 sec and a 16.6 sec quarter mile. The
whole drive train will be replaced by a 455, TH400, and Posi F**D 9 inch rear.
That should put a smile on my face!
*The "F" word was censored for younger adults.*
Sand blasting the bare frame and then applying Magnet Paints "Chassis
Saver" sealer to the bare metal. This stuff works great! It goes on with a paint
brush and self levels to a smooth rock hard finish.
Finishing the Magnet Paints "Chassis Saver" coatings and then adding
Eastwood's "Extreme Chassis Black Satin" paint. This is what does it for me.
I LOVE the look of the black satin on the frame. Timeless beauty!!
Adding the stainless brake line and new proportioning valve to the finished
frame. This kit went on without much adjustment. A mirror image of the stock
lines, except no rust.
The frame is finished. I explain what's next and how much I've spent so far.
PROJECT 442: Frame Restoration