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Updated 01-16-2020



G-BODY HOW TO





My own section of mechanical hacks and how to's related to the G-Body family (Cutlass, Grand Prix, Monte Carlo, and Regal)



GO TO: Olds Rally Gauge Refurbish



GO TO: G-Body Loose Tilt Steering Column Fix



GO TO: G-Body A/C Box Refurbish



OLDS RALLY GAUGE REFURBISH





Here are the items needed to do the job:

1/4" Nutdriver
5/16" Nutdriver
7mm Nutdriver (If you have column shift with gear indicator)
3M Headlight Restoration Kit
Electric Drill
Meguiars PlastX
Container of Water
Micro Fiber Towel
Micro Fiber Wax Applicator



On the Bench





Here's the Gauges before getting started. I'm going to convert mine to an Odometer "Delete" version to eliminate the reset stick coming through the lens. I do this by using a "Granny" gauge lens. (Seen behind the gauge cluster)



Remove the Lens





Remove the (4) 1/4 inch screws that hold the clear lens on. (Note the poor condition of the lens plastic)



Remove the Gauge Cover





The same 4 screws held the gauge cover underneath in place. Remove this as well.



Home Sweet Home





With both covers removed, you can start to remove the (5) 1/4 inch gauge screws.



Remove the Speedometer





With the screws removed, you can pull the speedo out.



Then the Tachometer





The other gauges are held on the backside by studs on the gauges and pinch connectors on the housing. They have a little resistance, but can be pulled straight out.



Temp/Fuel Gauge Next





Lastly the Oil/Volts Gauge





Remove "Dummy Lights" Overlay





The "Warning Light" overlay can now be removed.



Remove Light Separation Box





Remove the Light Separation box next. Be careful not to damage the gasket underneath.



Turn/High Beam Indicator





Remove the Turn Signal/High Beam Indicator box. It just lifts out. This is held in place by the gauges and the gauge cover.


If you are removing the gear indicator, there are (2) 7mm screws on the bottom of the cluster. (I kept mine in)



The Backside of the Cluster





Be sure to note or photograph the bulb placement on the back of the cluster where the printed circuit is located. I cleaned all the contacts and the 5/16 nut bottoms with a small piece of red scotch brite. A light touch is recommended (it's 31 years old).



All Torn Apart





If you are not doing any modifications to the stock configuration, you can clean or repair any parts and begin to reassemble in the reverse order.



Gauge Face Overlays





If your gauge faces are faded or damaged, you can restore them with these Overlays. These kits are sold at Whitegauges.net. You can request any color and even custom writing.


Click Here to Visit their Site.




Restore the Gauge Lens





I bought a 3M Headlight Restoration kit. I also used Meguiars PlastX, a micro fiber applicator and towel along with some water and a cordless drill.



Unbox the 3M Kit





The 3M kit comes with everything you need to get the job done. Three sanding pads, buffing pad, tape, and waxes.



Sanding the Lens





I try the process out on a used lens cover. There are 3 sanding pads (medium, fine, and trizact). I started with the fine pad because the scratches weren't too deep. You can attach to a drill or hand sand. I made several passes until the entire surface was opaque and free of any deep scratches.



Trizact Sanding Pad





Next it's on to the Trizact pad. You'll need the drill for this stage.



Making a Mess





Wet the pad and the lens surface. Begin sanding in even passes until a white "slurry" appears. Once that happens, make 5 to 10 slow passes over the entire surface. Clean and check for any scratches you may have left.



Hazy but Smooth





You will end up with a smooth, but hazy surface. Any big scratches left should be dealt with before moving on.



Now for the Magic





Switch to the buffing pad. Mist the surface of the pad with water and apply a dollop of the PlastX.



Buff to a Clear Finish





Buff for multiple passes, then clean with a micro fiber towel and check. Repeat the process until you have a clear even surface. Mist the pad with a little water each time and add some PlastX again. It may take several applications to get it just right.



Like Glass!!





After multiple buffing passes, you end up with a gauge lens that looks like it's brand new.



The Last Step





Once you're happy with the results, switch to a micro fiber wax applicator and hand buff with the PlastX or the wax included in the 3M kit. Mist a little water on the applicator before applying wax. Clean and buff with your micro fiber towel.



Results





With all the sanding, buffing, waxing, and more waxing done, the difference is noticeable. In the picks you can see two fingernail deep scratches that went horizontally across the face of the lens. The scratches are completely removed where the tape didn't cover them.



Another Angle





BEFORE!





You can see the lens behind the gauge cluster and just how scratched and cloudy it looked.



AFTER!!





The same lens cover is now behind the restored (And slightly modified) gauge cluster. It is simply a night and day difference.



Olds Rally Gauge: Video 1



Olds Rally Gauge: Video 2



Olds Rally Gauge: Video 3



G-BODY LOOSE TILT STEERING COLUMN FIX





Here are the items needed to do the job:

Steering Wheel Pivot Pin Remover (get the Lisle 19940 tool)
Steering Wheel Lock Plate Remover
Steering Wheel Puller
E8 Reverse Torx Socket
T-30 Torx Bit
T-20 Torx Screwdriver (or Torx bit)
1/2 , 9/16 , 7/8 , 13/16 Sockets or Wrenches
Red Loctite
Snap Ring Pliers
9/64 Allen Wrench
Small and Regular Flat Blade Screwdrivers
Needle Nose Pliers
Small and Regular Phillips Screwdrivers
Seal Pick
Hammer



Shop Manual Exploded View





All the part names and where they go helps a lot.



Getting Started





I have the column out on the bench for photographic access. It can be done in the car just fine.



Pull the Horn Button Off





There are three ears that hold it on the wheel. Just pull it off.



Remove the Horn Button Wire





Push the plastic connector sleeve in and turn counter clock wise. Then just pull it out.



Remove Snap Ring Clip





Use snap ring pliers to remove the clip from the steering shaft.



Remove Steering Wheel Nut





Remove the 13/16 nut from the shaft that holds the steering wheel on.



Look for Alignment Marks





Factory marks on the wheel and shaft are there to help the wheel go back in the same position. If they're missing use a chisel to make the marks.



Pull the Steering Wheel





My puller had 1/2 inch bolts that attached to the wheel and the puller took a 9/16 socket.

(Your puller may differ here)



Install Lock Plate Remover





Install the Lock Plate Remover tool and tighten until you expose the snap ring that holds it on. My tool used a 7/8 socket

(Your puller may differ here)



Close Up of the Snap Ring





​



Remove Snap Ring from Groove





I use a seal pick and a small flat blade to pop the snap ring out of the groove and slide it up to the tool.



Remove Wheel Lock Plate





With the snap ring slid up, remove the tool and then pull the snap ring and lock plate off.



Remove the Upper Bearing Spring





Remove the Upper Bearing Spring located below the lock plate.



Remove the Hazard Button





Use a small phillips screw driver to take the Hazard Flasher Button off.



Remove the Turn Signal Stalk Lever





Use a phillips screw driver.



The Turn Signal Stalk Lever Removed







Remove the Turn Signal Switch Assembly





Use a phillips screw driver to remove the three screws holding the Turn Signal Assembly on. You will have to move the switch to get to this screw, so do it first.



Change Turn Signal Return Springs





I recommend changing the Turn Signal Return Springs. These little guys can break with age, so it's worth the peace of mind having new ones in when finished.



New Turn Signal Return Springs





$3.00 from my local auto store.



Loosen Wiring on Column





At the base of the column are the harness connectors for the Turn Signal Switch, Wipers, and Cruise Cont. Remove them from the holder for the next steps.



Pull the Turn Signal Switch





Pull the switch out and hang it down in front of the column. Pull the wiring out as far as the connector underneath will let you.



Remove the Buzzer Switch Assembly





Use a pair of needle nose pliers to pull the switch out. (There's a spring clip that will stay stuck in there. We'll get that in a minute)



Remove the Ignition Cylinder Holding Pin





Use a T20 Torx to remove the Ignition Cylinder Holding Pin.



Remove Ignition Cylinder





With the Holding Pin removed, the Ignition Cylinder pulls right out.



Remove Buzzer Switch Spring Clip





Use a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the Spring Clip. Take care not to bend it. It fits on the switch as pictured above.



Remove Upper Bearing Inner Race Seat





Pull this out now, so it doesn't fall out when you pull the Lock Housing.



Remove the Lock Housing Cover Bolts





Remove the three silver T30 Torx screws holding the Lock Housing.



Remove the Lock Housing Cover





Pull the Lock Housing Cover forward and let it hang with the Turn Signal Switch.



Remove the Column Housing Cover End Cap





Unscrew the Tilt Lever and remove the End Cap.



Remove the Steering Wheel Tilt Spring





Use a phillips screw driver to remove the Tilt Spring. This is done by compressing the cap and turning counter clockwise.



The Steering Wheel Tilt Spring Removed





Remove Upper Bearing Inner Race





Remove this Inner Race so it doesn't fall out later.



I Recommend This Pin Removal Tool





There's another tool with a larger bolt with a small threaded end that screws into the pin. I hear it can break, causing cursing.



Pin Removal Tool





The threaded end screws into the pin ( It has a 9/64 Allen head). The cup goes over the pin and then you use a 1/2 inch wrench to tighten and pull the pin out.



The Pin Removed





Repeat on the other side.



Remove Steering Column Housing





Screw the Tilt Lever back in and move it a few times while pulling the top of the housing forward until it releases.



Remove Steering Column Housing





Rotate the housing clockwise slightly to be able to get the High Beam Rod through the opening in the housing. Let the housing hang.



You Made It!!





These are the offending loose bolts. Tighten all four of the E8 Reverse Torx bolts down before proceeding.

(We don't want anything else coming loose now)



Remove the Bolts One At a Time





With all four tightened down, remove one at a time and clean the threads.



Fix It Right





Coat the threads with Red Loctite and reinstall. (Do all four) Once these are tightened, repeat all the steps in reverse to reassemble.



**A Few Tips For Reassembly**





This Ignition Switch Actuator Rack (Attached to the Steering Column Housing)



**A Few Tips For Reassembly**





Must go over this pin that is part of the Switch Actuator Assembly



**A Few Tips For Reassembly**





That controls this rod going down to the Ignition Switch on the column



**A Few Tips For Reassembly**





The Actuator Rack and this Sector Gear must line up as pictured. Install the Ign Cylinder temporarily and check its function.



**A Few Tips For Reassembly**





Push the Pivot Pins in by hand and then tap them all the way in with a hammer.



**A Few Tips For Reassembly**





The Column Housing Cover End Cap has a Dimmer Switch Rod Actuator that sits in it like pictured above.



**A Few Tips For Reassembly**





It has to engage the Dimmer Rod as pictured.



**A Few Tips For Reassembly**





Put the End Cap in place and hold with your Left hand. Use your Right thumb to push the Actuator and click the Dimmer Switch. If that's OK, install Lock Housing Cover.



**A Few Tips For Reassembly**





With the Ign Cylinder installed, turn the switch to the "Run" position. Use a small flat blade to push the Green tab up and then install the Buzzer Switch.



**A Few Tips For Reassembly**





The Buzzer Switch and the Spring Clip go together as pictured. Install them assembled together.



G-Body Tilt Column Fix Video





Get some popcorn and sit back. This goes start to finish!



G-BODY A/C BOX REFURBISH





AC Box Refurbish: Video 1





AC Box Refurbish: Video 2





AC Box Refurbish: Video 3





AC Box Refurbish: Video 4





AC Box Refurbish: Video 5





AC Box Refurbish: Video 6





AC Box Refurbish: Video 7







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